Wi-Fi Access Points 101: Wired Networks’ Best Friends

Wi-Fi access points (WAPs, or APs) are similar to extenders, with one significant difference: an AP connects to the existing network, namely your router, using a network cable. And that changes everything.

Separating the AP from the router is an excellent way to build an effective Wi-Fi network in a wired environment where the Internet terminal is not located at the center or in any place suitable for a wireless broadcaster—such as a closet, a concrete basement, or a metal box. In this case, the best approach for optimal coverage is to use a standalone access point connected to a non-Wi-Fi router.

In this post, I’ll explain briefly the idea of Wi-Fi access points and offer tips on picking the best one for your network. If you’re already in the know and want to buy one today, here’s the list of the top access points among those I’ve tested:

Dong’s note: I first published this post on February 1, 2023, and updated it on February 7, 2025, to maintain relevant information.

Wi-Fi Access Points: Building a network with wired backhauling

Using a Wi-Fi access point means you build a network using network cables. That’s the traditional and the only way to have a top-performance network. That’s especially true with the help of Multi-Gig.

But first, what exactly is an access point?

Access points in a nutshell

As mentioned, an access point (AP) is a device that broadcasts Wi-Fi signals. It’s the minimum requirement for an infrastructure Wi-Fi network. In many ways, an AP is like a network switch, but instead of Ethernet ports, it incorporates radio bands that emit wireless data signals using one or more Wi-Fi standards for clients to latch on.

An AP must have at least one network port to connect to the existing network. Some even have more for you to host wired clients. Many access points feature Power-over-Ethernet (PoE), allowing you to avoid running electrical wire to its location—the network cable also delivers power.

So, in a sentence, an AP is the required hardware component for a local network to host devices without running network cables to them.

Popular roles of a Wi-Fi router

Below is the breakdown of four typical roles of a router. Not all hardware supports all of these, but most will have at least the first one plus another.

Some routers have even more roles—those from Asus, for example, also feature the proprietary AiMesh node role.

1. Wireless Router

This role is the default—the hardware will work as such unless you actively change that.

The hardware works as a Wi-Fi router that obtains an Internet connection and distributes it to the rest of the network via wired and Wi-Fi connections.

In this role, you must use the router’s WAN port for the Internet source. It’s also the only role in which the router’s routing and networking features (QoS, Parental Control, Dynamic DNS, VPN server, port-forwarding, etc.) are available.

Essentially, the hardware is now a standard routing box with a built-in managed switch and Wi-Fi access point(s).

2. Access Point (AP)

Important note: Certain vendors call this role “Bridge.”

In this mode, the hardware now works as an access point. It connects to an existing router via a network cable and extends the network farther, both wired and wireless.

In this role, none of the routing and features are available. All of the device’s network ports function as LAN ports. Essentially, the router is now a network switch with built-in Wi-Fi broadcaster(s).

By the way, if you have a Wi-Fi 6 router with a Multi-Gig WAN port, using it as an AP is the only way you can take advantage of this port’s high speed locally—without a Gig+ Internet connection, that is—assuming you have a Multi-Gig switch.

3. Repeater

The router now works as a Wi-Fi extender.

Specially, you use one of its bands (2.4GHz, 5GHz, or 6GHz) to connect to an existing Wi-Fi network—this is the backhaul band. After that, you can configure one or all of its bands (including the backhaul band) with separate SSID(s) to serve clients.

In this mode, all of the router’s network ports will work as LAN ports of the existing network.

4. Bridge or Media Bridge

Important note: Certain vendors—those that use “Bridge” to call the “Access Point” role as mentioned above—name this mode “Wireless Bridge.” There might be other arbitrary names for this role.

In this mode, the router works essentially as a Wi-Fi-to-Ethernet adapter.

Specifically, you use one of its bands to connect to an existing Wi-Fi network. Now, you can connect wired devices to the router’s LAN ports to make them part of the network. (In most cases, you should leave the WAN port alone, but some routers turn this port into another LAN.)

In the Media Bridge mode, the rest of the router’s Wi-Fi bands are unavailable.

The bridge mode is a bit different in a gateway unit, which is a router + modem combo box.

That’s when the gateway will work solely as a modem and no longer has any router-related function.

You can read more about how to get the most out of ISP-supplied equipment in this post.

This post discusses standalone access points, which can be used to add Wi-Fi to an existing network. That brings us to the first question: When do access points make sense?

When should you use an access point(s)

The first requirement before using an access point is wiring. You must run a network cable from the AP to your existing router or switch.

Scratch that! Let me put it this way: get your home wired so you can use a Wi-Fi broadcaster with wired backhauling. Running wires is the best way to build a robust Wi-Fi network. Often, only a single wire is needed and will make a huge difference.

After that, access points are applicable when:

• you have a non-Wi-Fi router, such as the UCG-Max, and want to add Wi-Fi to your network.
• your router has dated Wi-Fi standards. In this case, you can use an AP to upgrade your Wi-Fi network to the latest (currently Wi-Fi 7). (You can also turn off the Wi-Fi function of a Wi-Fi router to render it non-Wi-Fi or use its Wi-Fi network for a different purpose, such as extending the coverage, creating a Guest network, or building a separate network for IoT devices.)
• You want to extend Wi-Fi coverage to a far area, such as a large yard, a detached garage, or an outhouse, via a network cable.
• you want to build a robust enterprise-class Wi-Fi system

No matter the scenario, APs allow for flexibility—you place one in an area where Wi-Fi is needed, preferably in the middle of it. On the other hand, using a Wi-Fi router means you need to place the Wi-Fi broadcaster where the Internet enters your home, which is often not ideal.

And that brings us to the second question: How do I pick the correct AP for my need?

Tips on picking access points

Access points share the same hardware arrangement rules with a mesh system via wired backhauling—each mesh satellite unit is, in fact, an access point. So, when it comes to picking the right hardware, there are a few things to keep in mind:

1. The number of access point units

In most homes, you’d need just one access point. In this case, things are simple.

A standalone access point requires individual management. You need to create the SSID(s) and configure them to your liking. However, that’s not a big deal with a single unit—you’ll have to create one Wi-Fi network anyway.

So, is only a single AP needed? Pick an AP that can be managed locally. An AP that requires a vendor-assisted web portal and login account can be a hassle to handle since you can’t manage it without a live Internet connection.

On the other hand, if you need multiple units to blanket your property, it’s best to get those that can work together—essentially to form a Wi-Fi system—so that you still have a single Wi-Fi network. In this case, getting individual disjointed access points can be a pain because you still have to manage them individually. Addtionally, those from different vendors tend not to work well together.

So, are multiple APs necessary? It’s best to get access points that belong to a managed ecosystem, such as UniFi of Ubiquiti, Asus AiMesh, EnGenius FIT, or TP-Link Omada. By the way, that’s generally how an enterprise-class Wi-Fi network is built.

Other options exist, but those above don’t require an ongoing subscription. The access points can each function as a standalone broadcaster with a local web user interface or mobile app.

2. Wi-Fi grade for access points

This part is purely about the performance you want vs. the budget—generally speaking, the higher grade, the faster, and the more expensive. For right now pic:

• If you want to stay with the latest, use Wi-Fi 7 access points. These are best for those with Wi-Fi 6 and newer devices.
• Pick Wi-Fi 6 access points if you want the most stable and highest backward compatibility. This case is for those with a lot of legacy devices.
• If you want to add backward compatibility to a network with Wi-Fi 7, pick a Wi-Fi 5 access point. This setup applies to those with many IoT or legacy devices.

3. Powering your access point: Power-over-Ethernet (PoE) vs. standard adapter

The last thing to consider when getting APs is Power-over-Ethernet, which is a technology that allows the use of a single network cable to deliver data signals and power a PoE device—your access point, in this case.

PoE is perfect for placing an AP in a location without an electrical outlet, such as an outdoor location—the middle of a large yard—or an attic. However, PoE is not necessary if you intend to use an AP near a power outlet.

To use PoE, you’ll also need a PoE switch (one switch can handle multiple APs) or a PoE injector for each AP. Make sure they use the same PoE standard (PoE, PoE+, or PoE++), but when in doubt, get the switch or injector of the highest PoE standard (PoE++). Some access points include their own injector, but most don’t.

All business-class access points support PoE—many don’t even have a power port. On the other hand, most home-grade access points, which generally also work as extenders, require a separate power adapter and often do not support PoE.

Ready to make the move? Below is the current list of the top five best access points you can safely bring home today.

The recap

Individually, a Wi-Fi access point is an excellent way to build a Wi-Fi network because, thanks to the wired backhaul (the network cable), it delivers the best possible wireless performance for its Wi-Fi grade. When deployed correctly, multiple APs can work together as a robust mesh system.

Here are a couple of things to keep in mind when using access points:

1. You need a router to build a network. So, before thinking of using an access point, make sure you already have a router. In this case, a non-Wi-Fi router is the most suitable, though you can get a Wi-Fi router and turn its Wi-Fi function off to have the same effect.
2. Many access points feature PoE. In this case:
   • You’ll need a PoE switch or individual PoE injectors to use them. On this front, you need to get a PoE switch or injectors of the same or higher standard than the one used by the access points. When in double, get a switch or injectors of the highest PoE standard (PoE++)
   • Some routers have built-in PoE ports. If you pick one, check its PoE standard to see if it supports the access point you want to use.

Last but not least, access points need network cables. So, get your home wired today!